What you need to know before purchasing replacement windows
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MAKING THE DECISION:
Deciding to purchase replacement windows for your home is a big deal. The cost can be quite high depending on what style and type of window you choose. So knowing the correct questions to ask is not only important, but essential for the wallet.
The purpose of this hub is to provide the knowledge you need to ask informed questions and hopefully derail the unscrupulous salesman or contractor. All references to pricing will pertain to windows with one operating sash known as single hung windows. Pricing for other styles such as double hungs or casement style windows are slightly higher.
kEEP IN MIND ALL PRICING INFORMATION IS BASED ON MY KNOWLEDGE OF WHAT WINDOWS ACTUALLY COST AND STANDARD PROFIT MARGINS.
WHY LISTEN TO ME?
The last 17 years of my professional life have been spent in the building product industry with an emphasis on windows and glazing. I've worked in production, distribution, service, management, ownership and sales. I've seen a lot of things and heard a lot of stories.
Most of my experience has been in new construction but I've also done a fair amount of replacement projects. Each job is usually a bit different and rewarding. Even so, the industry can also be dangerous; (in the sense that the less you know, the more apt you'll pay more than you should). - The following is a general breakdown on what you should know before allowing anyone to sell you replacement windows. My intent is to keep you out of the dark.
HOW REPLACEMENT WINDOWS ARE SIZED AND PRICED:
Some replacement windows are priced by a call out size. For example, a 3' wide by 5' tall window would be "called out" as a 3050, (a 3' 0" width by a 5' 0" height).
The majority of replacements however are sized and priced by the united inch (UI); which is the sum of the window's width + height in inches. For example, if you have a standard window measuring 36" wide by 60" tall, the UI is 36 + 60 = 96 UI.
Most windows priced by the UI are done in ranges; usually 1-50 UI, then 51-100 UI, then 100-150 UI, and so on. So ask this question first. How are my windows being priced? Is it by the UI or the call out size?
This is important because better deals can often be found in standard call out size windows. Unfortunately, most applications call for custom sizes; but it never hurts to ask.
Just in case, here's a short list of standard window widths and heights. A standard call out size may contain any combination of these measurements.
Widths: 16" 18" 24" 28" 30" 32" 36" 40" 42" 44" and 48"
Heights: 24" 28" 32" 36" 40" 44" 48" 52" 54" 60" 62" 64" 66" 72" 74" 76" 78" and 84"
Example call out size: 18" width and 52" height is a 1644 call out size, i.e. 1' 6" wide by 4' 4" height.
General rule # 1: look for a price per UI around $1.30 base window cost with no options.
Your next question is to ask what the window prices are with and without installation. This is important because sometimes companies advertise a low window price and pad the installation. So make sure this is an up front question. Then you can ask the installation cost.
General rule # 2: look for an installation price roughly 50% of the base window price with no options.
BASIC INSTALLATION OF REPLACEMENT WINDOWS:
Even though each project is different, there are two primary installation procedures for replacing windows. The first is called a retrofit installation and the second a frame and flange installation.
The RETROFIT:
In retrofit applications, the existing frame, along with its existing interior and exterior trim pieces, remains in the wall. The replacement unit simply "retrofits" between the existing frame components and then attaches through the side jambs.
This is the cleanest and most time effective method since there is no actual rebuilding of the window opening or refinishing the interior. With this method, the exterior trim pieces (the brick molding and sill) are wrapped in a weatherproof vinyl or aluminum cladding and then sealed.
This is an effective way to do things. The new windows are then insulated and often times finished out with a small interior trim price to cover any rough edges.
The FRAME & FLANGE:
With frame and flange installation, the old window unit is completely removed and replaced with a new and complete window unit. The new window is installed by nailing through an attached nailing flange into the existing window (rough) opening. This method is used when interior and exterior trim need to be replaced due to rot or other damage or the consumer wants an overall more integral window and wall application; it does require more time and expense however.
The principal benefits of retrofit applications are cost effectiveness, time savings, and a less invasive installation. Frame and flange applications offer greater window unit integrity, larger product selection, and more options for various colors and finishes.
General rule # 3: Greater selection is available in frame and flange installations but look to pay more for the installation; sometimes 25% additional.
COMMON OPTIONS & COSTS:
If you haven't read my HUB on how to understand window energy ratings, I suggest you do so since some of the terminology introduced there is discussed here. Nevertheless, here's a list of options you'll want to ask for specifically (and have priced separately) when choosing your replacement windows.
LOW EMISSIVITY (LO-E GLASS):
This is a must when purchasing new or replacement windows since the energy savings far outweigh the initial cost. Typically, you should expect to pay between 10-25% depending on the product being used. For example, taking our standard 36 x 60 window with a hypothetical price of $125.00, the Lo-E up charge should be between $12.50-$31.25.
ARGON GAS:
Argon is usually sold along with the Lo-E glass. A typical up charge should be 6-12% on top of the Lo-E up charge
INTERNAL GRILLES (GBG for short):
These are the metal or vinyl bars placed between the panes of insulated glass to add a sense of multiple lites and aesthetics. Some manufacturers charge by the lineal foot and some by the unit as a whole. If priced by the lineal foot expect to pay between $1.50- $3.00 depending on the type of grill ordered.
An easy example using our 36 x 60 window would be as follows. A common lite pattern for such a window is 6 lites over 6 lites. This equates to (2) 36" horizontal grilles (1 for each sash) and (4) 30" grilles (2 for each sash). Our total lineal footage is 16' multiplied by the lineal foot price. Using this formula, the up charge would be $24.00 on the low end. The lineal foot charge is typically used for specialized grilles such as beveled, sculptured, or metallic.
A more common way of pricing internal grilles is by the unit. Typically, the up charge is $10 to $25.00 per window for a standard aluminum or vinyl internal grille set.
ADDITIONAL OPTIONS:
Frame color other than white. In most cases, this is a standard 10-15% up charge.
Varying frame colors between the interior and exterior frame. This is a tricky one but I'd expect to pay no more than 25% for this option.
Laminated interior frame surfaces and sashes. Here's where you can spend some money. Please ask this question when considering this option but don't pay more than 25%*. (Personally I think the laminated interior surfaces remind me of 1970s vintage cabinets).
* Changed from 40% previously. My error!
There are other features you'll encounter on replacement windows but these are the primary players. The key is to ask a lot of questions and get your estimate broken down into as many options as you can. This way you can pick and choose easier and better understand your costs.
General rule # 4: Always ask for, and have quoted separately, any options you might want.
In conclusion, as you can see, the costs can add up if you're not prepared to ask the right questions. So let's finish with a simple cost analysis using our good friend, the 36 x 60 window. We'll use the upper end of the scale for this example.
* Window price base cost: $125.00 (96 UI @ $1.30 per UI)
* Retrofit installation: $62.50 (50% of the window base cost)
* Lo-E glass option: $31.25 (25% of the window base cost)
* Argon gas option: $15.00 (12% of the window base cost)
* Internal grilles option: $25.00 (Net add on)
* Tan frame option: $18.75 (15% of the window base cost)
TOTAL: $277.50 (Approximate guideline)
I wish to stress the amounts indicated are mere guidelines and will vary according to the type of window purchased and the difficulty of the installation. Always get multiple quotes, ask a lot of questions, request and verify at least 5 references, never put down more than a 25% deposit, get everything in writing (including the product and labor guarantees, which should be a minimum 10 years product and 3 years labor), and never pay for the job in full until your satisfaction is complete.
If you know what you're up against and ask knowledgeable questions, you'll be better prepared. And being better prepared limits the potential of being taken advantage of.
General rule # 5: Always do your research and never agree to a contract with anyone who will not answer all your questions in full!
There are many reputable and integral people in this business. There are also a few predators. As the boy scouts say, be prepared. -- Good luck. -- Any questions feel free to comment.
CommentsLoading...
To Confident home: Thanks for your comment and reading my article. And also thanks for pointing out the error in my UI description.
My definition has always been as noted here since that's how the company I used to work for quoted every job.
Maybe it was a marketing ploy to advertise a lower price... nonetheless. Your definition is correct!
All that being said, the UI cost would still reflect actual cost if you took the 192 UI down to 96 but just charged 2X more per UI.
In fact, when I adjust this article in the future (since most of the pricing is at least 5% low due to current increases), I'll heed your professional advice.
As for the 25% down, that's probably a reflection of different market conditions.
Here in the midwest, a 25% down payment can still be considered low (I know it's shocking). I've even seen contractors offer no money down on complete siding and window replacement WAC. But that was before all this credit clamp down.
Time are changing of course. I do need to update this a bit. 8 months in this economy is huge.
Thanks again for your informed comment.
My windows are completely rotted. What would you suggest as a half way decent window? I have been told to be careful of vinyl windows - can you tell me why? I will be replacing about 35 windows in a 3 family house. The house is extremely old so I do not want the top of the line and I don't want something that is going to fall apart in 2 years either or have leakes after a few years. I have had my share of windows that leak. Can you give me some kind of idea based on all of your knowledge of windows what I am in for as far as costs?
Thank you kindly
joe ann carfora
jacarfora1951@comcast.net
Joe Ann:
Thanks for the comment. I've answered your questions via email.
Thanks, Rob
You're right in that costs do matter, and another matter is style - whether the window would blend in with your house. Good guide you have here. I'm into home improvement myself.
I too am thinking about buying replacement windows for my home. can you advise me what to look for. What is important to the consumer when looking for windows. What about certifications?
Thanks,
JP
info@persaves.com
JP: First of all, thanks for stopping by! If I were you, I would look at the following criteria: 1)A U-value of.35 or lower 2) A structural rating of HR-35 or higher 3)an air infiltration of .2 cfm/ft2 or lower 4) at least 5 solid references that you can actually talk to concerning their windows. Hope this helps!
Thanks Rob, what about who is installing them. I am sure you can have the best windows available, but if they are not installed properly....
great site! thanks for posting.
JP: Yes. Proper installation is a MUST MUST!! This is where you get your references for the install as well. Most companies use the same installers over and over. The crucial point is to use a repuatable company and get a good warranty.
Pricilla: Thanks for the comment. Good luck!
I moved into a new construction home, and the windows in the front of the house, although brand new, are very drafty. How do I know if it's the window itself, or just poor installation / insulation?
I am currently getting quotes from window companies. How do I know how low of a U rating I need? I want windows that are energy efficient and will last some time, but I do not want to pay an arm and a leg. I have seen prices (that include insulation) from 7600.00 to 2800.00. Also, how do you judge a warranty? I have read up on the efficiency ratings, but no where does it tell you what is idea for a specific region. This is extremely overwhelming when trying to make the best investment.
Andrea: It is very difficult to judge drafts in a new home without doing a blower test. If your problems are bad enough, I would suggest having one done to find the cause of the problem. Just because your windows are new does not mean they are the most efficient when it comes to air infiltration. Builders often use, unfortunately, lesser quality windows in new homes. I fought that battle for many years as I had to justify why the brands I sold were better, and thus more expensive. Good luck in all you do! Thanks for dropping by!
RJ
Thanks for all of the really useful information. The new Low-E glass looks like it can really help to save cost on utility bills. Nice hub.
Thanks for the excellent information it is very helpful. I have an older home (Built 1938) and so although we have not gotten it tested I am certain there is lead paint in the house. Is there anything I should ask when getting installation estimates regarding the removal of windows with lead paint?
Rebecca, thanks for dropping by. As far as the presence of lead paint on your existing windows my first thought would be that as long as the paint in intact, as in not peeling, flaking, etc., it would probably be OK to go ahead and replace them. To be safe, however, you might speak to a local lead abatement company for their opinion. Odds are if the windows have been painted a few times in the last 10 years or so all that lead paint is well covered and encapsulated. It is always better to be informed, though.
Have a great day!
RJ
thank you success...
Thanks WC: I'm glad this was helpful!
RJ
We are looking into a company that is selling simonton windows. Double Pane, tilt windows, vinly windows, argon gas filled,low e. We are looking at replacing 14 windows. The salesman guarenteed us 30% off our electric bill every month. Lifetime warrenty on windows and workmanship. They are Simonton Windows. Please send me an email soon at robwosburn@aol.com Thanks so much. Robin
Robin,
Response has been sent via email. Thanks for dropping by!
RJ
Hello - I am in the process of getting estimates to have all of our windows replaced. There are 29 windows of various sizes and almost all of them are casement windows. I read your very helpful article, but can you give me more guidence on how to make sure I won't pay too much or be taken advantage of. I am on a tight budget. Thanks.
palca11@yahoo.com
Dee,
You would be best served to get at least 2-3 estimates, ask for referrals from each, and then check with the BBB. This way you know the contractors are on the up and up. Thanks for stopping by.
RJ
I'm looking at have the windows in our house replaced. If we already know the seal on the outside of our windows let in cold air in the walls should we get everything replaced??? or can we still go with the retrofit??
Amber,
Thanks for dropping by. By the seal are you referring to an air gap between the operating sashes and the sill, or the bottom/horizontal frame of the window? If it is just a gap between the sill and the operating sashes, and as long as the sill is intact (no rot) and level, then a retrofit would work fine. If, however, the actual sill is rotted or warped, you might have to pull the entire frame and replace it as a whole. There are instances where the sill only can be replaced. I would ask whoever is bidding your work to give a detailed listing of what they feel the issues are. An entire new window unit is NOT a bad way to go; just slightly more expensive. I hope this answers your questions. Please feel free to send me more comments with any more questions.
Thanks again,
RJ
Hi,
I want to replace 4 windows. i received an estimate for $1,200 for (3) 48 x 72 tall aluminum single hung windows and $325 for installation. Also (1) 32 x 72 tall for $350, and $125 installation. For a total of $2,000 even. Does this seem right to you? Should I get another quote? Can I buy the windows cheaper and just have him install them? What about the tax incentive?
Thanks.
Virginia
Houston, TX
v_fleming4729@yahoo.com
Virginia,
Without actually seeing the windows you are being quoted it is difficult to say whether or not they are a good deal. Typically, aluminum windows are more expensive than vinyl (it used to be the other way, however). Having been out of the business for over 3 years now, I am not as up to date with prices as I used to be. It never hurts to get multiple bids on any home improvement project. Just make sure that you are getting an apple for apple quote. The installation quote you mentioned does sound fair as there is a lot of work involved in installation. As far as the tax credit goes, you will have to check the energy ratings on the windows quoted and match them up with what the govt. will credit. Typically, aluminum windows, regardless of glazing and thermal break frames, are not as energy efficient due to the nature of aluminum not being as good an insulator as wood or vinyl. Check U-values, R-values, and SHGC ratings and compare them to the govt's. mandate for the tax credit.
We are looking to replace 12 windows. Currently we have casement windows but now we want double hung fiberglass windows. Local window sales man gave us $1,000 per window quote. Warranty included life time for window and 2 years instillation. Windows are from well known manufacturer however the frames are mechanically fastened! I read somewhere that mechanically fastened windows are no good. Can you kindly advise on the price if I am being quoted correctly and if these types of windows are ok to install? My e-mail is anjmsar@hotmail.com. Thank you
Anjum:
Thanks for visiting my article. From the outside the price quoted seems a bit high, but not knowing what size your windows are, as well as the options quoted, makes it difficult to say for sure. A lifetime warranty on the product is fair, but in my experience, a quality window is only as good as the installation. Typically, if a window is poorly installed, especially in an existing home with little to no settling issues, installation issues show up fairly quickly, usually in 12 months or less. So, what I am saying is that the warranty on installation appears a bit short. I would question the salesman and ask for a list of references from customers whose windows are at least 5 years post installation. As far as mechanical versus welded frames, I feel welded is better because it is more integral. Mechanical frames, on the other hand, withstand movement better. The key is making sure all mechanical joints are properly closed and sealed. As a homeowner, I would always get at least 3 separate quotes for your home and try to compare product, price, and warranty as closely as possible. I hope my reply has addressed all of your questions. Thanks again!
RJ
Rob your comments are much appreciated. I took your advice and obtained few more quotes and we are now considering Composite windows from a manufacturer from North Dakota. These are not mechanically fasten but welded. We have been told this product is between vinyl and fiberglass? Quote I have now is $9,500 for 15 windows (14 double hung and 1 slider). Product warranty is 50 years and instillation warranty is 5 years which is better than our first quote. Please let me know if this product is good and if the quote is reasonable?
Many thanks
Anjum
anjmsar@hotmail.com
Anjum,
On the surface that appears to be a better deal. Proof that is does pay to shop around. The warranties appear strong and any window tough enough to withstand the rigors of a North Dakota winter is a keeper. I would still ask for a list of references, though. As for composite windows, especially fiberglass comp, I would feel comfortable installing them in my home. Although your quote is still significant, you must consider the warranties involved. Good products with proper installation will save you more in the long-term than a cheaper product that must be replaced and/or serviced, usually at your expense. Once again, thanks for dropping by and let me know how your final purchase ends up. BTW: what brand are you considering and I'll try to do my own quick research and email you back?
This brand we are going with is called THV Compozite. Here is the website of it.
Please let me know if you find some hidden skeletons about this manufacturer.
Cheers
I am replacing 9 windows. 6 are 24x60 and 3 are 36 x 60. I was given a quote for Simonton 5100 from home depot for $4350 complete and Energex Advantage by Affinity for $4300. Do you know have a preferece between the two. I am seeing a 3rd company that sells Dove windows next so I don't have any information yet. All windows will be low e and argon gas. They will also be double hung vinyl with grids.Thanks for any insight you might have.
my email is mberkowitz@verizon.net
Having sold Simmonton windows for a few years, I'm aware of the quality and custoimer service. All that being said, I would go with Simonton. They really are fine windows. Hope this helps.
those prices you are quoting are ridiculously low and seem to be geared toward lower end vinyl opposed to the higher end vinyl windows.
quite frankly no one in their right mind would ever install a window for 75 bucks, thats unrealistic around here and no true craftsman would ever work that cheaply. you get what you pay for and coming up with these low ball prices will cause some uninformed readers to choose an unskilled contractor who has no idea what he is doing and will more than likely install low end products sold in building supply stores.
Hi! All the windows in our home need to be replaced. Currently they are all double hung, with the six over six lite grid to which you referred in your article. Our living room has a bow window (not bay), the view from which includes magnificent sunsets, a pond, Canadian geese, and other wildlife. We'd like to replace the three double hungs of the bow window with crank-out casement windows (and "invisible" screens?) so as to remove as many distractions to the view as possible. And we're thinking casements rather than a large picture window because we need to be able to open the windows for air flow. (The situation of our home permits us to go with open windows for our "air conditioning" until the temp reaches the upper 80s.) So what is your opinion of these ideas? Thank you so much for your time!
Thanks for the great hub! We just purchased a fixer-upper and need to buy replacement windows. I want to find the best deal I can. Any suggestions on how to know I am getting a good deal? (http://rgilescontractor.com)
Thanks a ton for all the info you have here. You probably saved me alot of headaches and maybe even $.
You rock bro!
Hello, I have been wondering what kind of windows to use to replace 4 single pane windows on the north side of the house. They are 48"x72" I need something very energy efficient . Do to the cold weather
Marsha:
Those are all great ideas and just what I would do in your situation. Thanks for reading!
Rob
Natalie:
With so many windows on the market, along with me being out of the business for nearly 4 years, it would be difficult and unprofessional to offer current advice. What I can say is this: use these basic principles to arrive at a few questions to ask potential suppliers/contractors. having a base knowledge of what you you are ready to
Hello, The salesman is quoting me $37.47 per foot for triple pane, lo e, argon, plygem windows installed. Any thoughts? Any experience with plygem? Thanks, Ted
I am a window wholesaler who sells all AAMA certified and tax credit eligible windows in maryland, Virginia, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Georgia, DC, and the Carolina's. Every window comes with a lifetime factory backed warranty. And a factory direct installation with premium materials and sealants NO SUB CONTRACTORS. The window is only as good as the people installing it and the MATERIAL. You do not want a water based caulk. We also wrap all of the exterior wood on the home so you never have to paint again, also it will help wick water away so wood does not rot. We also replace all rotted wood. I have 18 different windows to offer from a variety of top ranked manufactures. The company I work for ranks 20th in the whole US out of every remodeling company. Most important thing is you project will be done right the first time. I have basic windows with u factor of.29 for 385 installed life time warranty on everything including accidental glass breakage ( warranty is also transferable). I also have premium windows with injected foam, composite reinforcement, . 01 air infiltration, r5 glass package, .18 u factor for 500-800 per window installed. Hope this helps! I can do a lot of the region and know this industry like the back of my hand. If you have any further questions about anything you can email me at j.lippold34@gmail.com. I know it can be a grueling process!
I know a lot about plygem. What is the installed price per unit he is giving you. And what type of install?
Chris- what style are your windows currently? Dh, sliders, or picture?
Hello,
I'm doing a remodel in the wake of a fire, so it is pretty much a rebuild. I wanted to get larger windows in my sun room can you give me an extimate of the price point differenc between 36X48 and 36X60 windows? They would be tempered and energy efficient. We had awning windows previously but that may change. Thanks!
Ted,
Thanks for reading but due to my time out of the business my knowledge is limited with regard to the mfr. you refer to. My articel is not manufacturer or price specific.
John,
Knowledge such as yours is always welcome although this article was not intended as an advertising forum. I hope others will contact you based on reading your comment.
Hi Rob,
We're looking at replacing 13 windows and looking into the Simonton 5500 triple panes. My first question, what is your overall impression on Simonton in general? Something you would put in your own home or steer clear of? Second, I see you've been out of the loop for a few years now but based on what you know could you look at my price quote through a local company? They are willing to break down price by window but not labor vs material (window) etc. as they won't sell just the window without install. The UI of each window is as follows:
109
71
93
71
71
56
86
86
80
80
80
109
71
72
72
72
My quote is $11,014 for all windows to include install, tax R&R and clean up. I would need to add an additional 10% for color options.
What is your take?
Hi Rob,
I am considering buying an apartment that has 2 very large windows facing a fairly busy street in one room. I'm pretty sure they're quite new and in good shape (~3 years old), but I would be interested in replacing them with something that would offer the best possible sound insulation. So I have two questions:
1. What is the best, most cost effective way to get the best sound insulation possible?
2. The windows are an unusual size: about 3 feet by 8 or 9 feet. How much do you think replacing such windows would cost?
Thanks very much!
I had to install a new bow window- vinyl(new construction), got the quote for $4750. But the contractor came back and re measured for individual vinyl windows measuring 78"x78", which going inside the old frame of my original bow window. It's argon filed and spacing look like 1/2".
Is it worthy for the above price?
Pls. Adv
cherianJacobm@yahoo.co.in
There are 5 windows measures 78"x78"
cherianJacobm@yahoo.co.in
ConfidentHome 3 years ago
I don't know about the rest of the USA, but in the NY/NJ Metropolitan area, UI is simply width plus height. There is no multiplying x's two. A 36 x 60 window is 96 UI.
Also, any customer should expect the downpayment to completely cover the cost of materials. No contractor in their right mind is going to take 25% down, especially at the very low pricing you suggested.